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소개
현대식 전자 제품에는 어지럽도록 많은 데이터 및 전원 케이블 커넥터가 내부에 있으며—실수로 부서진 커넥터 처럼 프로젝트를 완전히 중단하는 것은 없습니다.
이 안내서를 사용하여 가장 일반적인 유형의 커넥터와 익숙해지도록 하고 커넥터를 안전하게 분리하고 다시 연결하는 데 필요한 도구와 기술을 배우세요.
필요한 것
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ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) 커넥터는 종종 초보자에게 문제가 됩니다. ZIF 커넥터는 FFC (Flat Flex Cable) 또는 FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit) 케이블 처럼 부서지기 쉬운 리본 케이블을 고정하는 데 사용됩니다.
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케이블을 분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저 끝 또는 손톱으로 작은 잠금 플랩을 위로 올리세요. 그런 다음, 케이블을 안전하게 빼낼 수 있습니다.
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플랩은 케이블과 같은 쪽 혹은 반대 쪽에 위치할 수 있습니다. 들어올리기 전에 커넥터를 점검하세요.
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간혹 잠금 플랩이 소켓에서 빼내는 리본 케이블을 발견합니다.
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이런 종류의 연결은 일반적으로 이 PS3 제어 보드 케이블 처럼 더욱 견고한 리본 케이블을 고정합니다.
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케이블을 분리하려면 커넥터에서 케이블을 똑바로 당겨 빼세요.
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이와 같은 플랫 커넥터를 분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저를 사용하여 양쪽을 들어 올리세요. 그 다음에 소켓에서 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.
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도구의 끝을 커넥터 가장자리 아래에 넣고 소켓에서 커넥터를 똑바로 들어 올리세요.
I have an idea,/Request that I'm sure would be worth the effort, and fit right into this subject. how about a step by step guide on fixing the mistake of fudging up the socket yes on the mother board Guilty, right now it's a 500 dollar paper weight!! ! And I'm sure there's a long line of us,right guys, since you guy's are Awesome at it! Where to source the female sockets that's go onto the board and the proper steps and tecniques , would be greatly appreciated, keep up the great work!!
Sorry to hear that! My usual advice would be to take it to a repair shop that performs board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Replacing a damaged connector socket typically requires a lot of skill, practice, and tools that likely cost more than the full retail price of your device. So, it’s not exactly DIY-friendly! But if you’re interested, you can find a good introduction to board-level repairs on our YouTube channel.
Is there a specific name for this type of connector? (brand, etc).
Stack-type Board-To-Board connector. JAE is a big manufacturer. FPC (Flexible Printed Circuit), what we commonly know as flex cables usually - is considered a board in this context.
"To reconnect, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place."
This is ambiguous because it isn't clear to readers which is the 'side' of the connector referred to. For example, with a long rectangular connector, do you mean one of the short sides, or one of the long sides? I fear I may have got it wrong - after replacing my iPhone XS battery the bottom speaker no longer worked.
I disassembled the phone and disconnected and reconnected the connectors, to no avail, so reassembled the phone and ordered a replacement speaker. After fitting that, the speaker still doesn't work but unfortunately my screen now has a very bright stripe a few millimetres wide down the RHS. I didn't apply any excessive forces while lifting the screen and working on the phone - in fact it was easier to remove than the first time I opened it. The only thing I can think of is I used excessive isopropyl alcohol when cleaning the seal off.
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U.FL 안테나 케이블 커넥터 같은 소형 동축 커넥터는 얇은 ESD-안전 도구 또는 핀셋을 전선 밑으로 커넥터에 닿을 때까지 밀어 넣고 보드에서 똑바로 들어 올리세요.
Hello, I am repairing a tablet and the head to my coaxial cable fell off. What do I do?
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때때로 디스플레이 및 카메라 케이블 커넥터는 소켓 뒷면 주위의 작은 금속 클립이 제자리에 고정합니다.
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커넥터를 분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저 끝을 클립 아래로 살살 미세요. 그 다음에, 클립을 소켓의 다른 쪽으로 돌려 케이블에 평평하게 붙이세요.
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클립과 케이블을 함께 잡고 케이블 방향으로 조심히 당겨 커넥터를 소켓에서 분리하세요.
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여기 Xbox 게임 콘솔에 일반적으로 사용되는 또 다른 유형의 리본 커넥터가 여기 있습니다.
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분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저나 손톱을 사용하여 커넥터에서 투명한 푸른 탭을 들어 올리세요.
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그 다음, spudger/스퍼저 끝으로 플라스틱 잠금 탭을 밀어서 여세요.
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리본 케이블을 커넥터에서 케이블 방향으로 당기세요.
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어떤 커넥터는 케이블을 풀기 전에 약간의 달램을 필요로 합니다. 이 작은 iSight 카메라 케이블 커넥터는 들어올 리거나 당길 수 있는 마땅한 자리가 없습니다.
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안전하게 분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저의 끝을 사용하여 커넥터의 각면을 조심히 밀어주세요.
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이쪽 저쪽 번갈아 가며 밀어서 커넥터를 소켓에서 살살 "걸어” 나오게 하세요.
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이런 전원 케이블 커넥터 측면에는 제자리에 고정하는 작은 탭이 있습니다.
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커넥터를 소켓에서 분리하려면 탭과 커넥터를 손가락으로 집고 소켓에서 위로 당기세요.
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JST 커넥터는 비슷하지만 잠금 탭이 없습니다. 다른 비슷한 커넥터 유형으로 탭이 있을 수도 또는 없을 수도 있으며, 전선은 2, 3, 혹은 최대 6 개 이상의 전선을 갖고 있는 경우도 있습니다. 카메라의 마이크 또는 스피커를 연결하거나 라디오의 회로 보드를 서로 연결하는 수도 있습니다.
Hallo, ich habe genau wie auf dem Bild bei meiner PS3 Slim ein ähnliches Kabel von dem Laufwerk zu trennen versucht. Beim Ziehen ist nicht das Kabel abgerissen, sondern die Anschlusstelle an der Platine hat sich auf einer Seite gelöst. Muss man hier nun das Teil wieder dran löten oder kann man es irgendwie mit Klebern fixieren?
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하나의 커넥터에 개별로 싸인 많은 전선이 연결되어 있으면 케이블 자체를 당기는 것이 가장 좋은 방법입니다.
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개별 전선이 연결된 동일한 방향으로 커넥터에서 케이블을 당겨 빼세요.
Lijkt me dat je hier eerst vlak over het kunststofdeel van het kabelcontact, in het midden waar hij lager is, smalle dunne schroevendraaier steek zodat het kunststof iets omhoog buigt en het borgnokje vrij komt zodat je hem eruit kan trekken!
Terug gewoon insteken.
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이 단계에 사용된 도구:iOpener$17.99
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때로는 소켓에서 커넥터를 분리하는 것만으로는 충분하지 않을 때가 있습니다; 케이블을 빼기 위해 한 두 가지 추가 단계가 필요합니다. 여기 Lightning/라이트닝 포트 리본 케이블이 살짝 접착되어 있습니다.
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분리하려면 spudger/스퍼저나 기타 픽을 케이블 아래로 조심히 밀어 케이블을 접착제로 부터 분리하세요.
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이 SATA 케이블 같이, 어떤 흔한 내부 전원 및 데이터 케이블은 이미 집안에서 사용하는 일반 오디오/비디오 케이블과 매우 비슷합니다.
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케이블을 분리하려면, 그냥 케이블 방향으로 당기세요.
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손가락으로 탭을 누른 상태에서 케이블을 당겨 뺍니다.
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또한 아예 분리하지 못하도록 설계된 전선은 실제로 납땜되어 있습니다.
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걱정하지 마세요—납땜 인두와 약간의 납땜 심지는 이 작은 녀석들에 신속한 작업할을 가능하게 합니다.
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아직 납땜에 익숙하지 않은 경우 자사의 납땜 기술 안내서로 이동하여 새로운 기술을 배우세요!
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이들은 보통 소형 계산기, DECT 전화 및 간단한 monochrome 7-segment /모노크롬 7 세그먼트 또는 저-해상도 디스플레이에서 사용됩니다. LCD 유리의 전도성 선과 그 밑에 있는 회로 보드의 패드 세트를 연결하는데 사용됩니다. (이런 디스플레이는 때로 손상된 세그먼트 또는 픽셀 줄이 있습니다.)
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일반적으로 나사 또는 꼬인 금속 탭이 LCD와 회로 보드 사이에서 elastomeric/엘라스토메릭 스트립을 누르는 금속 프레임을 고정합니다. LCD와 elastomeric/엘라스토메릭 스트립을 분리하기 위해서 이 나사들을 풀어주세요.
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Elastomeric/엘라스토메릭 스트립은 길이에 따라 전도성 및 비-전도성 층으로 번갈아 구성되어 있습니다. LCD로의 모든 연결은 여러 가지가 가능하므로 정밀한 정렬은 필요가 없습니다.
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결국에는 어디서도 본 적이 없는 커넥터를 마주하게 됩니다.
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커넥터를 주의 깊게 검사하고 어떻게 분리하는지 알아보세요.
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그래도 문제가 해결되지 않으면 비슷한 기기의 안내서에서 힌트를 검색하거나 자사의 답변 포럼에서 도움을 요청하세요.
Hi,
I've just been wrangling with a 25ish year old Kenwood stereo. There were some connectors on it that I couldn't work out - which led me to this guide. The specific connectors aren't shown here. It turns out theybare spring-loaded, and you have to push the upper part (that I initially thought was a plug) down into the board - and this releases the ribbon cable. On the stereo, there are some shorter ones (8-pin), and some longer ones (15pin). On the longer ones, if you look close enough, they helpfully say ‘push' on them.
I've taken some photos of you'd like to add them to this guide?
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다른 394명이 해당 안내서를 완성하였습니다.
다음 번역가들에게 특별히 감사 드립니다:
76%
이 번역인들은 저희가 세상을 수리하는 데 도움을 주고 있어요! 기여하시겠습니까?
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27가이드 댓글
Beautiful work. However, my modern LCD flat screen TV set uses the "No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors" and I think they are fairly common in this application.
"Step 2 — No-Fuss Ribbon Cable Connectors
Occasionally, you'll find a ribbon cable that simply pulls out of its socket, with no retaining flap.
<snip>
These kinds of connectors are fairly rare, so check carefully for a way to release the connector before you resort to pulling on the ribbon cable."
This was great! thanks for the detailed pictures. I have a question though on a very specific port used on apple tv 1.
here's the link to my post
It's important to note that ZIF connectors often do require force to insert, for example the digitizer ribbon cable on the Nexus 6, which has a bit of negative tension from being curved. It has to be pushed in using the little raised portion with a fingernail, and held so the line on the cable matches the line on the PCB before closing the retention bracket or else it will not connect properly.
I have a visio T-con board that has two flat ribbon connectors the one to the screen as a flip open latch you can do with your finger nail the other has a thin metal strip that over hangs the end on both sides. And ideas on how this one opens up? Rowland
Great post!
Would be great if Jeff or someone could help me with my question, doesn't look as though that connector type is covered in the the post above. Its listed here - Need help with these Connector latches
TIA,
Norm
good page, but I was looking for the display connectors for ipad air 2. They seem to just push on, but the pressure is so light I am not confident that they are seating correctly. It won’t turn on at any rate though the screen briefly comes up at boot.
Those are pop connectors—see Step 4. Align them carefully, and press them down; you should feel them click into place.
I recently ran into a FFC (Flat Flex Connector) type I didn’t know how to open exactly, and this page only refers to the flip-lock type. Turns out it was a slide-lock connector and the diagrams on the page below were very helpful. I simply used my tweezers to push on the two tabs towards the cable, the actuator moved easily once you knew which way to apply force.
Doing ifixit versions of these diagrams would be VERY helpful.
Slide Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Flip Lock Diagram: ''https://gct.co/Images/products/ffc-con...
Parent Page: ''https://gct.co/ffc-connector''
Googling to find these hints was VERY difficult not knowing the terminology. But this ifixit page was at the top of the stack, update to save the next guy half an hour googling?
(Updating to say you DO mention ‘sliding’ connectors… but the mechanism of the actuator is not very clear and/or the photos didn’t quite get me there, mine was a smaller pin-pitch I think too).
@clickykbd This is a great idea! I’d love to add it to the guide. Do you mind sharing the name of the device you were working on, so we can try to get some photos of that connector in the wild? Or do you have some photos of your own? For copyright reasons, we usually can’t borrow other people’s images or graphics for our guides without permission. Thanks for sharing!
Jeff, It was a Marshsall VLCD70MD-3G on-camera/field monitor. The connector was for the LCD ribbon flexible pcb cable.. I’ve still got it apart as I am trying to source a LCD, so I can try to get some half decent photos in a day or so. I’m pretty sure I’ve run into these before and they came apart with the “just pull” method… but reseating them without mangling the flat-flex was very difficult without knowing the trick if I recall. Thought I would do my homework this time.
Bonjour
Je voudrais retirer un câble nappe écran sur la carte mêre de mon téléviseur LG 47LE5510 il y a dessus un petit levier qui se lève à l’ongle mais le câble semble collé et je n’ose pas forcer. Sur le connecteur est indiqué FS60 et le câble est un EAD60974135.
Pouvez-vous m’aider car je ne voudrais rien casser et ces 2 câbles coûtent cher en piece détachée.
Merci d’avance
Thank you, thank you, thank you. My husband really needed this.
Some ZIF ribbon connectors I’ve found, have the latch on the side of the insertion of the cable, some others on the oposite side. So be sure to pull on the correct side, or you will damage the connector. Another tip is to pull them very gently and when closing it, also with not much pressure, I have spoiled some hinges in the process, what is left to do is replace the whole connector.
Great article, but just one question… WhatWhat happens if you break one of these? Can you suggest a fix for something like the ZIF connector.
Is it pretty much a write off if you snap the latch on some of these connectors?
I have a 3D printer from China, it is an Artillery Sidewinder X1 v4 model . It uses ribbon cables from the power supply to the heated nozzle and the heated print bed. It is my understanding that power is sent along a couple (or more) of the wires to distribute the load, and I get a good deal of heat at the connector site, on the ribbon cable itself. It is enough heat that I believe the connection and/or the ribbon cable itself will fail.
It is a friction fit connection and I imagine it is difficult to keep the connections inline at the connecting point. The printer uses 20 wire and 30 ribbon wire cables as can be seen at: https://www.amazon.com/Artillery-Ribbon-...
My question, and I do understand the value of your time, is – what can I do to better align the connections? Is there some sort of heavier gauge ribbon I can use and, perhaps, do so through some sort of adapter at the connection point?
Anything you can suggest is appreciated.
Hi,
i need the connector in step 10.
Where can i buy this?
Thank Manuel
Merci : très clair et complet. Je vais pouvoir aider un ami à rebrancher le connecteur de son GPS
Where may I purchase these zif ribbon connectors?
URL disabled
Hi Robin! Which URL is disabled? Can you point me to a specific step?
URL disabled on my phone.
How to fix it now
Why can't I ADD min
that's so useful! I wanted to replace the battery in my smartwatch but I am worried about breaking the connector. Now I know exactly how to deal with these connectors.
What if I break the ZIF connector itself (were the ribbon goes), is my tablet ruin?
elainegb27 - 답글
Unless you are good with a soldering iron or hot air station I would suggest taking it to someone that can do it.
deswaite -
“…Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector socket….” but we’re not going to provide any further information than this and good luck with that :-)
andyescribe - 답글
That’s what the photos are for—providing a visual example. There are a million different implementations of ZIF connector out there, so it’s not possible to provide specific instructions for each one in a single guide. For that, you need to search for the guide for your specific device. Unfortunately, looking at your post history, it appears you attempted to do that, but the guide you were following (Nexus 6) mislabeled the battery connector as a ZIF connector. I’ve corrected the guide. Sorry for the trouble!
Jeff Suovanen -
You have provide awesome tips which is very helpful. I have issue with FPC that not connecting with Cable
Ralph Vale - 답글
hola he intentado cambiar el cristal de mi apple watch 2 despues de conseguirlo me he dado cuenta que he retirado el cable sin bajar la pestaña o no se que he doblado los pines despues de intentar una y otra vez el conector zip de la derecha ha quedado inservible es posible comprar ese conector en algun lugar o sabrian que nombre de conector debo buscar ya que no viene en ninguna expecificacion gracias
Fran Ansio - 답글
Great tutorial, thanks. Had I not seen it, I would have irreparably damaged my keyboard. Perhaps it lacks a bit more guidance on how to place the cables back. I found that part to be the hardest actually.
Juan Dueñas - 답글